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Thread: Power Steering Pump Problems and Solutions

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    Power Steering Pump Problems and Solutions

    I'm sharing my experience as I recently had a power steering pump challenge and some of the knowledge could be useful for others. I eventually managed to solve the problem myself but over the few weeks I was trying to resolve this here's what I learnt:

    1) This link on NAISOC was a very useful source of information and a brilliant write-up - http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1897783

    2) I measured the size of the top o-ring on the TS pump to be 17mm x 14mm x 2.1mm. This is not a standard size anywhere but the American Standard (AS568A) -015 size is the closest equivalent. I know it will fit very snugly but I changed my pump so never got to test it on an engine. The WRX pump top o-ring measures 16.5mm x 13.5mm x 2.1mm - I cannot find anything to match this.

    3) While I was trying to get another pump, I bought a shorter belt to bypass the pump and used manual steering for about two weeks. The feedback from the road is excellent and the car feels much more sturdy (extra HP too). It's very easy on highways and parking is the only difficult thing - takes some time to get used to though. The length of belt needed is about 705mm so a 4PK705 would work (I couldnt find a 5PK). The Ford Escort 1982 belt is a 5PK and will work perfectly (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/com...au_pf_dp_chart) .

    From the following write-up, if you are condemning your steering rack, removing the fluid and greasing the rack provides much less resistance and should be easier - http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/7517...-delete-9.html

    4) I got a used pump and it started to leak after a little use. Based on what I learnt, these pumps should last over 150,000km so the only problem has to be that top o-ring instead of any other internal problems. I figured that some type of seal/gasket above the o-ring between the flange and the pump body would prevent air from getting in so I took some silicone gasket maker and make a small circle the size of the flange and let it dry overnight on a piece of plastic. I took this and put it on the level above the o-ring on the flange (o-ring remains) and it worked perfectly - no more air getting in (see photo). I figure this would have solved the problem with my first pump also so troubleshoot this area first before replacing the pump.

    5) Based on my experience, if your pump is making grinding noises when you lock, the top o-ring is close to failing as air is getting through when it is at maximum pressure. It's probably best looking into solutions to replace or seal that area before your problem gets worse. Also, once you open the top flange, air will get into your pump so I recommend bleeding the air by raising the car and manually turning the tyres (no steering wheel) before starting the car again.

    All information here is based on opinion from experience only.
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    TSOC bugeye Mafia Chung's Avatar
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    what's the difference between turning the wheels instead of the steering wheel? there is none, u can turn the wheel...BUT SLOWLY. someone correct me if i'm wrong, i followed the link provided, but it doh make sense to do that.


    excellent writeup silversub!
    Cheap and fast won't be reliable. Cheap and reliable won't be fast. Reliable and fast won't be cheap.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chung View Post
    what's the difference between turning the wheels instead of the steering wheel? there is none, u can turn the wheel...BUT SLOWLY. someone correct me if i'm wrong, i followed the link provided, but it doh make sense to do that.


    excellent writeup silversub!
    thanks, Chung...as for the method of bleeding, you are probably right

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    TSOC bugeye Mafia Chung's Avatar
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    how did u make the seal? formed it by finger and left it to cure?
    Cheap and fast won't be reliable. Cheap and reliable won't be fast. Reliable and fast won't be cheap.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chung View Post
    how did u make the seal? formed it by finger and left it to cure?
    Used estimation...the silicone is flexible so if you are a little off, it no problem

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    excellent. i'm surely trying this on ne thing i come across. thanks!
    Cheap and fast won't be reliable. Cheap and reliable won't be fast. Reliable and fast won't be cheap.

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    Senior Member M_kingh's Avatar
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    Additional Info:

    I recently had to replace my Psp (power steering pump) after it started to display the "classic symptoms". After exploring the various options available New/Used. Located a new Psp at N+M for a "reasonable price".

    Lessons learnt:
    Our cars are notorious for burning up power steering pumps. A small radiator added to cool the power steering fluid is adequate to resolve this problem.
    Psp reservoir should be removed and cleaned with any spray solvent. The Psp Fluid should be clear,clean with no burnt smell and replaced regularly.

    There is a TSB (technical service bulletin) related to the pressure relief valve in the Psp but was unable to locate any detailed info,drawings or rebuild kits.
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    Last edited by M_kingh; 17-07-2011 at 03:19 PM. Reason: Pic added
    "Where You Seek Happiness, There You Shall Find It".

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    Senior Member Rx's Avatar
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    good stuff here... PSP are quite notorious for leaking......

    m_kingh... it would be interesting to know how "reasonable" the price was at N&M

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    D Baddest Bugeye! Subydude's Avatar
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    another option i relocated/reangled the reservoir and lines... alot less pressure on the pump and also a smaller distance for the fluid to travel from the reservoir tothe pump ... next project is getting the reservoir above the pump

    air bags save lives Subaru save air bags

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    Senior Member seanw's Avatar
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    hi im getting a problem psp it vibrate when i turn it to d left and right can u help thanks.

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